What’s Wright in the World

Merry Christmas from Xi’an!

We are in the winding down days of our third semester of teaching in Xi’an. This week and last week were notable for the Christmas parties we held in each of our classes. Students watched “How the Grinch Stole Christmas,” sang Christmas and Chinese New Year songs, played games and ate popcorn and sunflower seeds (a favorite snack), and were told about the origins of the Christmas traditions in the West. Last year, four of our grandchildren did a reenactment of the Nativity. Students in my classes watched a power point presentation of their performance while “Silent Night” was played in the background.

Last weekend, we traveled with other teachers to the nearby city of San Yuan, to visit the Temple of the City Gods. This is a concept that each city is protected its own cadre of Deities, some of whom are graceful and others vengeful. A few pictures of each are posted at www.pbase.com/caljimw in the San Yuan gallery.

Following a luncheon of local delicacies, most of which were unrecognizable, but quite tasty, we were bussed a short distance to the point of the geographic center of China. The site is somewhat isolated, accessible by a side road and through a family graveyard that appears to have been in place for many generations. That it is not a major tourist attraction is evidenced by an absolute absence of souvenir vendors of any kind, not even a “gift shop” on the premises. It is, in fact, a point of reference for all cartographic endeavors for this nation. While I have an antipathy for transporting my not insignificant frame up narrow stairwells, I heard the Sirens singing from the top of the six story observation tower that stands at the exact center of China (The Chinese name for this country is Jung Guo – the center place; therefore, by their definition, this is the center of the center place of the world) . The view from the top is not spectacular; flat farmlands in every direction, punctuated by a few residential and industrial buildings and a graveyard to the north. In the compound are seven concrete marker, containing precisely set metal points used for plotting purposes. Even though they were strictly utile in shape and in their relationship to one another, I still thought of Stonehenge and other similar ancient astrologically based formations.

A few minutes were spent inspecting the adjacent cemetery. There is great ritual associated with burials in the countryside of China (Cremation is mandatory in cities).

The graves all contain an arched opening, through which communication between the living and the dead takes place. For a period of time following burial, meals are taken to the doorway, and left there for the spirit’s nourishment. The period of mourning for a deceased is three years. On the anniversary of the death, the family makes a visit to the gravesite, where joss is burned and prayers for the dead are uttered. Twice a year, summer and winter clothing is taken to the arch of the burial mound and burned, so that the spirit of the deceased will have appropriate clothing for the season. In the photos you will see evidences of ash at the opening. The large “floral” piece above one grave is made of crepe paper, and serves the purpose of a wreath from western culture.

Janet has been busy this last part of 2006, supplementing her teaching assignment by knitting scarves for the homeless of Xi’an. She has, thus far, knitted about 30 scarves, most of which have already been gratefully claimed by those whose lives expose them to the vagaries of the weather the greater part of their days and nights. We have been thrilled that all of our children and grandchildren chose to forgo receiving gifts from us this year, opting rather that we find ways to help some folks here in China. They, in turn, are doing things in their own communities of a similar nature. It has, in a somewhat magical way, made the family seem much closer together this season than a map would indicate.

It has been said that relief from stress is an efficient antidote for many physical ails. That has certainly proven true for us. Except for a few days of discomfort at the end of our trip home last summer, the inevitable sniffles have been no more than minor inconveniences. The doctors did a pretty thorough examination before giving me a clean bill of health. In sum, we have been greatly blessed.

We wish too, for all of you, great blessings.

Enjoy!